Pearl Quality Evaluation

Pearl Quality Evaluation

The quality of pearls is one of the key factors that determine their value and the overall impression of a piece of jewelry. Evaluation is not simple – several parameters are considered, including shape, luster, percentage of natural blemishes, nacre thickness, and the overall harmony of the pearl.

• Shape – perfectly round pearls are the most valuable, but oval, button, and baroque shapes also have their unique charm.
• Luster – high-quality pearls reflect light sharply and brightly, giving jewelry a vivid and luxurious appearance.
• Natural blemishes – small irregularities, spots, or lines prove the pearl’s natural origin, though at the highest grades they are almost invisible.
• Nacre thickness – the thicker the nacre layer, the more durable the pearl and the deeper and more intense its luster.

Worldwide, two main grading systems are used: AAA–AA–A, commonly applied to freshwater and Akoya pearls, and A–D, the so-called Tahitian grading system used for pearls from French Polynesia.

Aurora TEN-NYO – the ultimate grade

Aurora TEN-NYO represents the highest possible quality for Akoya pearls. These are selected pearls from the Hanadama harvest, subjected to even stricter selection and meeting only the most rigorous Japanese standards. Only 1–2% of the entire Akoya production is awarded this prestigious designation.

TEN-NYO pearls are distinguished by their perfectly round shape, exceptionally thick nacre (often over 0.5 mm), flawless surface, and extraordinarily intense luster. Their value is not only aesthetic but also investment-grade. Each TEN-NYO pearl comes with an original certificate from the Pearl Science Laboratory Tokyo, which details all parameters. (image: Pearl Science Laboratory Japan)

Aurora HANADAMA

A special designation for Japanese Akoya pearls that marks the highest quality in the standard range. Hanadama pearls are even rarer than AAA – only about 5% of the total production meets the strict criteria. Always request an original certificate from Japan. Typical features: perfectly round shape, nacre thicker than 0.4 mm, minimal or no surface blemishes, and an extremely intense luster.

AAA – top-quality pearls

AAA-grade pearls are virtually flawless – over 95% of the surface is clean, the luster is very high, and the shape is regular. For Akoya saltwater pearls, nacre thickness must be at least 0.4 mm. Freshwater pearls have a minimal nucleus and are composed almost entirely of nacre. These pearls belong to the premium category and are ideal for luxury jewelry.

AA – very good quality

AA-grade pearls feature a high luster, with at least 75% of the surface free from visible blemishes. Their shape is nearly round, and the nacre layer is thick. Compared to AAA, they are less regular but still offer excellent quality at a more accessible price. Suitable for everyday wear as well as elegant jewelry, where slight irregularities highlight the authenticity and uniqueness of each pearl.

A – basic quality

A-grade pearls have lower luster, and more than 25% of the surface may show natural blemishes (spots, lines, stains). Their shape is not always perfectly regular. Nonetheless, they have their place – often used in pendants, bracelets, or other jewelry where naturalness and originality add distinctive character.

Designations A+, AA+

In addition to the main categories, there are intermediate grades such as A+ or AA+. These indicate pearls on the border between two quality levels – for example, a pearl better than AA but not quite AAA will be graded as AA+. Such designations provide customers with a clearer understanding of quality.

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